Paul Prüfer

Ich heiße Sie herzlich Willkommen beim Herrenschuhe-Tester. Mein Name ist Prüfer, Paul Prüfer. Ich sage Ihnen welche Herrenschuhe einen Kauf wert sind und welche getrost im Regel der Händler verstauben dürfen.

Bugatti Schuhe im Test

Bugatti Schuhe im Test

Es muss Anfang Juni gewesen sein, als Frank sich bei mir meldete. Er und ich, wir sind alte Freunde, haben uns vor Ewigzeiten bei der verordneten Zwangsrunde bei der Fahne kennen gelernt und sind über die Jahrzehnte stets in Kontakt geblieben. Frank weiß um meinen Faible für Schuhe und das ich auch gelegentlich welche teste. „Paul“, begann er, „ich möchte Dir ein Paar Schuhe für einen Test vorschlagen“. Ich war ehrlich skeptisch, denn Frank, so gern ich ihn auch habe, kommt einfach nicht über das Llyod-Level hinaus. Sofort nahm ich ihm den Wind aus den Segeln: „Frank, hör mal, Llyod-Schuhe hatte ich bereits im Labor – haben dabei keine gute Figur abgegeben. Eigentlich wollte ich mal wieder ein Paar höherpreisige…“ Er unterbrach mich sofort. „Quatsch, hab ich gelesen. Kann Dein Urteil als Llyod-Fan überhaupt nicht teilen. Ich meine Bugatti!“, berichtete er aufgeregt. „Bugatti?“, fragte ich zweifelnd in den Hörer. „Seit wann macht der Luxuswagenhersteller denn bitte Schuhe?“ Frank wusste es nicht, was er jedoch wusste war meine Adresse und nur wenige Tage später trudelte ein Zalando-Päckchen mit Bugatti-Schuhen bei mir ein. Tja, was soll ich sagen, einem geschenkten Gaul schau ich ganz gern einmal ins Maul.

Die Sache mit den edlen Autos war rasch aus der Welt. Bugatti ist nicht gleich Bugatti. Hinter der Bekleidungsmarke Bugatti steckt die deutsche „bugatti Holding Brinkmann GmbH & Co KG“ mit Sitz in Herford. Irgendwie waren die Ende der 1970er ganz clever, als sie sich den Namen „bugatti“ für eine neue Bekleidungslinie aussuchten (angeblich nach der Studie des Mailänder Telefonbuchs) und ihn sich beim Patentamt sichern ließen. Der Automarke ging es zu diesem Zeitpunkt gar nicht gut. Doch wie können hier zwei Firmen unter einem Namen fertigen? Nun, seit 1999 existiert eine Vereinbarung mit dem Volkswagen-Konzern, der ein Jahr zuvor die Rechte erwarb, Automobile unter dem Markennamen Bugatti zu fertigen.

Seit 1991 vergeben die Bekleidungs-Bugattis Lizenzen für die Fertigung von Schuhen und laut eigner Aussage auf ihrem Webauftritt, beherrschen die Herforder, bzw. deren Lizenznehmer, alle traditionellen Macharten.
Ob Frank und ich nach dem Test noch Freunde sind und inwieweit es vielleicht doch Parallelen zwischen dem Bugatti Herrenschuh und dem Bugatti Flitzer geben könnte, erfahren Sie in meinem Test. Wie immer bin ich nicht gerade zimperlich mit den Tretern umgegangen.

Das Testergebnis

Optik

Um den Look dieses „Slippers“ (meint Zalando) zu beschreiben, eine kleine Anekdote. Auf einer Motto-Party im Sommer trug ich die Bugatti Schuhe zum ersten Mal. Das Thema war irgendwas mit Mafia, also über die italienische Familie und ihren amerikanischen Soprano-Ausläufern bis hin zur Russenmafia, die wohl am besten in Dominik Grafs beeindruckendem Werk »Im Angesicht des Verbrechens« portraitiert wurde. So oder so, die Farbe des Dresscodes war mit schwarz recht eindeutig vorgegeben. Durch das Tragen der Bugatti Schuhe konnte ich das Nützliche mit dem Angenehmen verbinden. Zum großen Paten sollte es in meinem Fall nicht reichen. Durch die unelegant sportliche Formgebung, dem übertrieben glänzenden Leder und dem wohl lächerlichen Klettverschluss (Hallo! Ich bin älter als 7 und kann schon Schleife binden.) reichte es nur für eine Imitation des Kleinganoven. Ich glich also eher einem Handlanger oder wie sie es im englischen nennen „muscle“. Der Typ fürs Grobe, der dann vom Helden in den Filmen zuerst kaputt gemacht wird. Andere Herren glänzten in ihren schwarzen glatten Oxfordschuhen und boten ein formidables Bild, während ich abseits blieb und pikiert Sto Gramm trank.

Falls die Optik-Wertung aus dieser Anekdote nicht ganz klar wurde, möchte ich es hier noch einmal nachholen: Fürchterlich! Absolut grauenhaft! Nach dem Abend hätte ich Frank ganz gerne mit diesen Kinderschuhen verwammst. Vorne die Karreeform, die meine Füße eher wie Hufe aussehen lässt. Dazu zwei Ziernähte auf dem Spann, die ins Nirwana laufen und nur da sind, weil sie es eben können. Dieser Schuh hat nichts im Business verloren, es sei denn man steht wirklich auf der unteren Gehaltsebene des organisierten Verbrechens. Weil ich einen guten Tag habe, vergebe ich jedoch gerne einen Gnadenpunkt.

Verarbeitung

Der Name „Chianti Crispino“, wie er bei Zalando angegeben wird, gibt bereits Aufschlüsse. Der knapp 70 Euro teure Bugatti Herrenschuh wurde in der San Crispino-Machart gefertigt. Dahinter verbirgt sich nichts anderes, als eine weitere Variante der AGO-Machart (aufgepasst, die Abkürzung steht für einen Euphemismus: Another Great Opportunity). Diese wiederum beschreibt schlichtweg und ganz einfach den verklebten Schuh.
Den ersten Grifftest übersteht der Schuh mühelos. Der Kleber hält zusammen, was hier zusammen gehört. Einzig die Stretch-Zunge gibt ein wenig nach, aber das ist schließlich so gewollt, denn irgendwie handelt es sich ja bei dem Bugatti Schuh um eine Slipper-Variante, bei welcher der Einstieg doch recht unkompliziert verlaufen sollte.

Gehen wir ein wenig tiefer und lassen die Flex kreischen. Einmal zerteilt, erhalte ich einen ungetrübten Blick auf die Innereien des Bugatti Schuhs. Das Innenfutter besteht tatsächlich zu geschätzten 62 Prozent aus einer dünnen Lederschicht unbekannter Herkunft. Der Rest ist Stoff. Auch die Innensohle verfügt über einen hauchdünnen Lederüberzug. Im Vorderfußbereich ist dieser mit einem sternförmigen Lochmuster versehen. Was diese Löcher hier zu suchen haben, vermag ich nicht klar zu sagen. Anzunehmen sind hier Gründe der besseren Atmung, wobei sich mir die Frage stellt, wohin der heiße Fuß hier atmen soll? Direkt in die Klebung? Eine Korkausballung oder ähnliches sucht man vergebens. Vielmehr besteht die Unterseite der Brandsohle aus Schaumstoff. Sie bietet ein wenig Polster, birgt jedoch nicht für Haltbarkeit. Direkt unter hier liegt der bereits erwähnte Stoff, der wiederum durch einen weiteren klebenden Stoff auf der Laufsohle befestigt ist. Das Material der Laufsohle ist Gummi, der fest mit einer Hartpappe verklebt ist. Ein lockerleichtes Gehgefühl ist garantiert – die lange Beziehung zwischen Schuh und Träger indes weniger.

Ah ja, bevor ich es vergesse. Schaumstoff findet sich ebenfalls unter der minimal dünnen Oberlederschicht. Der Blick nach Hinten: Fersenkappe aus Pressspan und ein geklebter Gummiabsatz. Immerhin werden hier nicht mehrere Schichten suggeriert, der Käufer erhält was er sieht und zwar einen schönen dicken Gummipropfen.
Der innere Rand erklärt dann auch die San Crispino Machart. Ein Großteil ist verklebt, doch zudem wird das Oberteil durch eine zusätzliche Naht („San Crispino Naht“) mit der Brandsohle verbunden. Ein Plus an Handwerk, auch wenn ich stark bezweifle, dass dies per Hand erfolgte.

Ein kräftiger Zug am Klettverschluss bleibt folgenlos. Gut gemacht, hier kann man sich festhalten, wenn zu viel Vodka bei Sommerparties getankt wurde.

Okay, natürlich handelt es sich bei dem Bugatti Herrenschuh nicht um eine handwerkliche Meisterleistung, aber das gibt er auch gar nicht vor. Er vereint die Errungenschaften der Vulkanisierung mit einer kleinen Naht. Die verarbeiteten Materialien sind nicht hochwertig, doch sie halten und passen zusammen. Der Bugatti Schuh reiht sich hier problemlos in die breite, kostengünstig produzierte, Masse von Alltagsschuhen ein, wie sie im Discounter zu finden sind.

Ledertest

Den Part hake ich dieses Mal fix ab. Da sich keine Informationen finden lassen, gehe ich einmal davon aus, dass sich bei dem Oberleder um einfaches Rinderleder handelt. Dieses ist recht weich, wobei durch seine kaum vorhandene Tiefe ich eher in den Schaumstoff denn in Leder kneife. Der glanzgestoßene Aspekt ist nicht meine Sache. Ansonsten lässt sich noch vermerken, dass es sich hierbei um deckgefärbtes Oberleder handelt – in der Preisklasse habe ich aber auch nichts anderes erwartet. Den Wassertest besteht es mit Bravour. Leder färbt nicht ab und verschwindet kommentarlos unter der Gummisohle.

Es lässt sich festhalten: Ja, es handelt sich hier um Leder – nicht mehr und nicht weniger. Keine großen Ausreißer nach vorne, eben der minimal mögliche Standard um einen Schuh als Lederschuh zu definieren.

Tragetest

Die ersten Momente auf der Sommerparty fühlten sich außerordentlich gut an in den Bugatti Herrenschuhen. Locker leicht sitzen sie an meinem Fuß und ja, für einen kurzen Moment genieße ich diese Leichtigkeit, die ein rahmengenähter Schuh nicht zu bieten weiß (ich spreche hier vom Gewicht!). Doch nach einigen Märschen zum Buffet und der Bar wird rasch deutlich, dass die Bugatti Schuhe meinen Füßen keine optimale Führung geben – sie wirken wie Fremdkörper und plötzlich merke ich einen zunehmend unangenehmen Druck am rechten kleinen Zeh. Links ist dort alles bestens, doch bereitet mir hier der Mittelfußbereich Probleme. Dieser ermüdet nur all zu rasch und beginnt zu schmerzen.

Ich bin erstaunt, denn bisher hatte ich in Schuhen noch nicht das Problem, dass sich links und rechts anfeinden. Auch zickte mein Spann bisher nicht rum.

In der Folge beließ ich es bei Kurzeinsätzen der Bugatti Herrenschuhe, die immer so getimed waren, dass ich die Möglichkeit zum Schuhwechsel hatte, als die Schmerzen einsetzten. Will sagen: Es wurde nicht besser, aber vielleicht hab ich dieses Problem auch nur ganz exklusiv. Wie bei anderen verklebten Schuhen erhalte ich auch hier wieder rasch Rückenschmerzen – dies bezieht sich aber eben nicht alleine auf die Bugattis.

Sonstiges

Die Schuhe wurden im hauseigenen Bugatti-Schuhkarton geliefert. Wer bis zum Erhalt noch nicht wissen sollte, von welcher Firma seine neuen Schuhe denn eigentlich sein mögen, der bekommt es hier spätestens in fetten Lettern auf die Augen gedrückt. Nicht schön, wie ich finde. Ein wenig Understatement oder zumindest ein Hauch von Eleganz hätte der traurigen Verpackung gut getan.

Im Karton selbst warten dann noch zwei minderwertige Polyester-Schuhbeutel auf den neuen stolzen Besitzer der Bugatti Herrenschuhe. In diesem machen die Schuhe dann aber tatsächlich eine gute Figur, da man sie nicht mehr sieht.

Sonst fällt mir hier nichts ein. Immerhin sind die Beutel vorhanden und prinzipiell liegt der Preis für die Schuhe nicht im exorbitanten Bereich.

Mein Fazit

Tja, Frank. Irgendwie war das nichts mit den Bugatti Herrenschuhen, die Du für mich zum Testen auserkoren hast. Ab sofort bleiben wir bei unseren Veteranengeschichten und halten uns von diesem Thema hier fern. Es sei denn, Du lässt dich noch mal von mir zum guten Schuh bekehren.

Die von mir getesteten Bugatti Herrenschuhe haben mich weder wütend gemacht, noch überrascht. Sie sind ein Paradebeispiel für die weltweit meistverkauften Schuhe. Preiswerte Materialien werden in Fabriken, unter kräftiger Zuhilfenahme von Kleber, zu billigen Schuhen gemuschelt. Mit der Tradition des Schuhmacherhandwerks hat dies nichts zu tun. Es entstehen Schuhe zu vermeintlich günstigen Preisen für die breite Masse. Diese trägt sie eine, vielleicht zwei Saisons lang und dann wandern sie in die Tonne und machen Platz für den nächsten Billigschuh. Es lebe der Kapitalismus! Nieder mit der Nachhaltigkeit.

Absolut langweilig. Mehr kann und will ich dazu gar nicht schreiben. Wer in seinem Leben nur Schuhe wie diesen hier kennt, der weiß im Grunde überhaupt gar nichts über Schuhe. Schade.

Mehr Tests
Kommentare
  1. Marc Koch sagt:

    Lieber Herr Prüfer,

    als ehemals passionierter Lloyd/Bugatti/Mercedes-Träger (ich habe keine Ahnung, wieviele Paare der drei genannten Marken ich in den letzten 15 Jahren „verbraucht“ habe) musste ich doch bei der Lektüre Ihres Artikels – oder vielmehr beider Artikel zu Bugatti & Mercedes – oftmals schmunzeln. Ohne Rahmengenähte sein Eigen nennen zu dürfen fallen die ganzen Mängel (ablösende Sohlen, sichtbare Klebstellen etc.) und Widrigkeiten (u.a. schweißnasse Füße (!)) dem Träger gar nicht auf, werden mehr oder minder als „normal“ akzeptiert. Erst der Erwerb von Rahmengenähten öffnete mir hierfür dann überhaupt die Augen – vorher fehlte schlicht der Vergleichsmaßstab – und die vorher Präferierten kämen für mich heute überhaupt nicht mehr in Frage. Viele argumentieren mit den Preisen für Rahmengenähte (ab etwa 150-200 € aufwärts), was ich zumindest bei Dauerträgern von Lederschuhen nicht gelten lassen möchte: das Mehr an Qualität, Komfort und Langlebigkeit rechtfertigen den Kauf jederzeit und der rein monetäre Break-Even stellt sich oftmals schon im zweiten oder dritten „Tragejahr“ ein…

    Vielen Dank für Ihre sehr amüsant geschriebenen, informativen und schonungslosen Artikel und den damit verbundenen Aufwand!

    Herzliche Grüße, Ihr Marc Koch

  2. Paul Prüfer sagt:

    Vielen Dank für Ihren Beitrag Herr Koch. In der Tat haben Sie damit absolut Recht, dass ein Unwissender niemals die Mängel als solche identifizieren wird. Allein in meinem persönlichen Bekanntenkreis werd ich oft als bornierter Spinner abgetan wenn ich den Herren mal etwas Gutes empfehlen möchte. Hier herrscht der Glaube vor, dies muss so sein, kostet ja auch nicht viel und nächstes Jahr hol ich mir wieder das gleiche Paar Schuhe.

    Schade, denn von denen fährt wiederum niemand einen Dacia Logan, sondern ist eben davon überzeugt, dass deutsche Autos eine höhere Wertigkeit besitzen. Nun könnte ich ja in deren Sinne argumentieren: „JA und? Der Dacia fährt doch auch und kostet nicht viel“. Einen Zusammenhang will hier aber keiner sehen. 😉

    So geht der Kampf für besseres Schuhwerk dann auch weiter. Um hier dann mal aus den Niederungen der Herrenschuhe wieder rauszukommen, strebe ich als nächstes dann auch mal wieder einen Test von mir sehr geschätzten Modellen an.

    Grüße

    Paul Prüfer

  3. Matthias Tamrat sagt:

    omg, das ist ja grauenhaft! Dieser Schuh ist ja schon von der Optik her ein Produkt, wie man es auf dem Grabbeltisch eines Lebensmittel-Discounters nicht schlimmer findet, und der Test fördert hinter dieser gräßlichen Fassade auch nichts Brauchbares zutage. Die Frage bleibt, wofür hier immer noch 2 Sterne stehen. Ich kann mir überhaupt nicht vorstellen, wie ein Schuh noch stilloser und noch dürftiger sein kann.

    Das eigentliche Trauerspiel ist, daß man soetwas jeden Tag zu sehen kriegt, und zwar nicht bei Leuten, die sich einfach nichts besseres leisten können oder die in der Freizeit Badelatschen und im Beruf Arbeitsschuhe mit Stahlkappe tragen, sondern z.B. morgens um 7 auf dem Flughafen, in der Schlange mit lauter eifrigen Geschäftsleuten, Ingenieuren, usf., die gerade ihren BMW im Parkhaus abgestellt haben und auch genug Geld sich einen Boss-Anzug und ein feines Köfferchen zu leisten. Aber dann senkt man seinen Blick nach unten und sieht … unförmige Briketts billigster Machart, vermutlich sonstwo von Kinderhand gefertigt …

  4. Paul Prüfer sagt:

    Lieber Herr Tamrat,

    ein sehr richtiger und wichtiger Punkt den Sie da ansprechen: Herren, für die gutes Schuhwerk eigentlich obligatorisch sein sollte, geizen genau an diesem Punkt ihrer Kleidung und verderben dadurch letztlich ihren gesamten Auftritt. Auch ich beobachte dies immer wieder. Schicker Anzug, tolle Uhr, feine Krawatte, modischer Haarschnitt und dann schaue ich auf die Schuhe und sehe da irgendwas staubig kantiges.

    Es gilt hier Pionierarbeit zu leisten und mit gutem Beispiel voran zu schreiten. 😉

    Beste Grüße

    Paul Prüfer

  5. Okutan sagt:

    SOLCHE SCHEISS SCHUHE HATTE ICH NOCH NIE IN MEIN LEBEN 2 MAL SCHON GEKAUFT UND ÜBER 80 € BEZAHLT
    ABER JEDES MAL SCHMERZEN OHNE ENDE ICH BIN SEHR UNZUFRIEDEN

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